socalmach
01-29-2011, 07:51 PM
I figured I'd do a little write up of changing the brakes.
Back Brakes
After getting the back tire off
1. Spray PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench on all wheel studs where they come thru the rotor, it will break the rust off the backside of the rotor hat.
2. 12mm wrech to remove the caliper, liquid wrench is your friend. You will need a screw driver to help pry the caliper loose, hang it using a zip tie to the springs.
3. 15mm wrench to remove the caliper bracket, liquid wrench.
4. Check to see if there are any keepers on the wheel stud, they look like washers. If the rotor doesn't just pull off spray again and head to the other brake to let it soak in. Rinse and repeat.
5. To remove the rotor you will need to break the rust bond between the spindle and rotor. I used a 42oz. Dead Blow mallet hitting the rotor hat to loosen things up then the back side of the rotor. Careful not to hit the dust shield. Rotate the rotor while hitting to make things easier getting it off.
6. To turn the caliper piston in you will need a special tool. The rear piston has to be pressed and turned at the same time to get it back inside the caliper. Advance has them for around $7.
7. Take out the bleeder screw on the caliper (11mm), then with the tool press and turn (clockwise) to get the piston to retract. If you don't open the bleeder you will be there all day.
8. Replace rotor after getting it machined or a new one.
9. Install caliper bracket.
10. Put anti-squeal grease on the back of the pads and place pads on rotor.
11. Caliper should slide over the pads, reinstall bolts.
12. Clean rotors with break cleaner to get any fluid or grease off.
Front Brakes
1. Spray PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench on all wheel studs where they come thru the rotor, it will break the rust off the backside of the rotor hat.
2. Remove caliper by taking off the C-clip on the back bottom side of the caliper. Careful not to loose the washer with it. Remove the bolt and slide the caliper off the rotor, the bottom of the caliper comes off first. You will need a screwdriver to get it off.
3. 15mm wrench to remove the caliper bracket, liquid wrench is your friend.
4. Check to see if there are any keepers on the wheel stud, they look like washers. If the rotor doesn't just pull off spray again and head to the other brake to let it soak in. Rinse and repeat.
5. To remove the rotor you will need to break the rust bond between the spindle and rotor. I used a 42oz. Dead Blow mallet hitting the rotor hat to loosen things up then the back side of the rotor. Careful not to hit the dust shield. Rotate the rotor while hitting to make things easier getting it off.
6. Take out the bleeder screw on the caliper (10mm), with a 4" C-clamp compress the piston back in to the caliper, leaving the pad installed on the piston side will make it easier to push the piston back in. If you don't open the bleeder you will be there all day and/or cause some damage.
7. Replace rotor after getting it machined or a new one.
8. Install caliper bracket.
10. Put anti-squeal grease on the back of the pads and place pads in the caliper. The little spring on the pad should be facing down or it will not fit into the caliper bracket.
11. Slide the top of the caliper onto the bracket first then push the bottom of the caliper onto the rotor.
12. replace caliper bolt, washer and C-clip.
13. Spray rotor with brake cleaner to clean any fluids and grease.
Make certain to bleed the brakes since the bleeder screws have been opened. Use the brake manufacture's bedding process for best performance.
A picture of the rear caliper brake tool. Use the side that has 2 prongs.
Back Brakes
After getting the back tire off
1. Spray PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench on all wheel studs where they come thru the rotor, it will break the rust off the backside of the rotor hat.
2. 12mm wrech to remove the caliper, liquid wrench is your friend. You will need a screw driver to help pry the caliper loose, hang it using a zip tie to the springs.
3. 15mm wrench to remove the caliper bracket, liquid wrench.
4. Check to see if there are any keepers on the wheel stud, they look like washers. If the rotor doesn't just pull off spray again and head to the other brake to let it soak in. Rinse and repeat.
5. To remove the rotor you will need to break the rust bond between the spindle and rotor. I used a 42oz. Dead Blow mallet hitting the rotor hat to loosen things up then the back side of the rotor. Careful not to hit the dust shield. Rotate the rotor while hitting to make things easier getting it off.
6. To turn the caliper piston in you will need a special tool. The rear piston has to be pressed and turned at the same time to get it back inside the caliper. Advance has them for around $7.
7. Take out the bleeder screw on the caliper (11mm), then with the tool press and turn (clockwise) to get the piston to retract. If you don't open the bleeder you will be there all day.
8. Replace rotor after getting it machined or a new one.
9. Install caliper bracket.
10. Put anti-squeal grease on the back of the pads and place pads on rotor.
11. Caliper should slide over the pads, reinstall bolts.
12. Clean rotors with break cleaner to get any fluid or grease off.
Front Brakes
1. Spray PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench on all wheel studs where they come thru the rotor, it will break the rust off the backside of the rotor hat.
2. Remove caliper by taking off the C-clip on the back bottom side of the caliper. Careful not to loose the washer with it. Remove the bolt and slide the caliper off the rotor, the bottom of the caliper comes off first. You will need a screwdriver to get it off.
3. 15mm wrench to remove the caliper bracket, liquid wrench is your friend.
4. Check to see if there are any keepers on the wheel stud, they look like washers. If the rotor doesn't just pull off spray again and head to the other brake to let it soak in. Rinse and repeat.
5. To remove the rotor you will need to break the rust bond between the spindle and rotor. I used a 42oz. Dead Blow mallet hitting the rotor hat to loosen things up then the back side of the rotor. Careful not to hit the dust shield. Rotate the rotor while hitting to make things easier getting it off.
6. Take out the bleeder screw on the caliper (10mm), with a 4" C-clamp compress the piston back in to the caliper, leaving the pad installed on the piston side will make it easier to push the piston back in. If you don't open the bleeder you will be there all day and/or cause some damage.
7. Replace rotor after getting it machined or a new one.
8. Install caliper bracket.
10. Put anti-squeal grease on the back of the pads and place pads in the caliper. The little spring on the pad should be facing down or it will not fit into the caliper bracket.
11. Slide the top of the caliper onto the bracket first then push the bottom of the caliper onto the rotor.
12. replace caliper bolt, washer and C-clip.
13. Spray rotor with brake cleaner to clean any fluids and grease.
Make certain to bleed the brakes since the bleeder screws have been opened. Use the brake manufacture's bedding process for best performance.
A picture of the rear caliper brake tool. Use the side that has 2 prongs.